Converting Lapua .308 Brass To 6.5 Creedmoor

[Rooks]

I got tired of waiting for lapua brass so with the help of Kalindark, I decided to do a step by step guide to covert .308 lapua to 6.5 Creesmoor. Pretty simple actually..

I have the Hornady Match grade bushing full length sizing die. I removed the bushing from the sizing die. I used Hornadys imperial case wax and lubed the shoulder and neck up before running the .308 sized brass through the die.
Before:
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After:
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Left: .308 Right: .308 ran through the die with the bushing OUT. Neck size was .293. Same as a fired 6.5 case.
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Next, I case trimmed to 1.920". This was quite a bit of brass to trim and got a little uneven during the process. This was mostly due to the fact the tip of the neck flared out to .300". I deburred inside/out at times to help with the trimming. When I got down to the last few hundred thousandths the trimmer worked much better.
After trimming I ran the brass through my .290 bushing and K&M expander die to get ready to neck turn. I used a K&M carbide cutter with the power tool shell holder attached to an electric drill.
Neck thickness of the NON-TURNED .308 lapua was .018" compared to a NON-TURNED 6.5 Creedmoor neck of .013"!
Lapua:
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Hornady:
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Last I turned the neck .003" to .015" and checked to see if the brass would chamber. I touched it up with steel wool so you cant see the neck turned compared to the rest of the case.
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It fits like a glove! I will fire it next weekend and do some tests when spring rolls around.
Some nice features of the converted lapua brass over the Hornady; neck thickness is ~.003" thicker. Weight is ~20-25gr heavier. Primer pockets are your typical lapua quality.

Hope this helps with anyone looking for a winter project or to make Creedmoor Lapua brass.

[GMinor]

One day I'll have the time and patience to do this to Lapua .308 Palma brass (small primer)

[chazwood]

I have been trimming the case's before I run them through the full length die, can't remember the length but have it written down at home. It seems to make it a bit smoother to operate the press, less stress on everything.

The length I trim 308 brass to is 1.927. That gets the finished length at 1.910. I think looked it half hour ago and second guessing myself. I did work night shift last night so I'm very tired.

[GMinor]

Seems like a good idea.

[Aussie65]

I'm sure Trent said the same thing a while back about trimming first. I just bought the full length bushing die so I was happy to see this method as I was going to buy a 7mm08 sizer for an intermediate step but won't bother now.

[Rooks]

How much were you guys trimming in the form of .308 before running through the die?

[[email protected]]

Just want to make sure I understand this correctly.  You are taking .308 Lapua brass lubing it up and throwing it in a 6.5 sizing die, then trimming, neck truning and checking for correct length, neck thickness, etc?

How many firings do you have out of this brass? Does anyone know how many you could possibly get out of Lapua brass?

[exsimguy1]

I am no stranger to forming brass into new calibers, so I have a question. What are you doing to clear the inside donut, that results from making neck out of shoulder? I usually sneak up on it with progressively larger chucking reamers, as it is easier to maintain concentricity, if not taking it all out at once.

Inquiring minds and all.....

Terry

[kalindark]

I formed 243 lapua brass into creedmoor and if you neck turn far enough into the neck/shoulder junction, you don't get an inside donut.
We will have to see if Rooks gets one after he fires his brass.

[chazwood]

I'm new to reforming brass but I haven't noticed a donut on the inside. I tried 243 brass first and didn't have much luck. I've only reformed federal case's so far, still trying to get the process perfected before I use Lapua brass.
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How much were you guys trimming in the form of .308 before running through the die?

Rooks I trim the 308 brass to 1.927 then run it through the resizing die. Next I neck turn, final trim, polish neck with steel wool and then run it though the resizing die just in case I've bent the neck.

[Rooks]

Shane, I quoted your question and filled in the forgotten steps;

 I am taking brand new .308 Lapua brass lubing it up and throwing it in a 6.5 sizing die with NO BUSHING, then trimming, THEN EXPANDING, neck turning and checking for correct length, neck thickness, etc?

I am no stranger to forming brass into new calibers, so I have a question. What are you doing to clear the inside donut, that results from making neck out of shoulder? I usually sneak up on it with progressively larger chucking reamers, as it is easier to maintain concentricity, if not taking it all out at once.

Inquiring minds and all.....

Terry

I currently have a few used multi-fired .308 Lapua pieces kalindark sent me in the mail.
 I have a BRAND NEW box sitting there waiting but want to try and get it right with old cases.

 I have only done 2 pieces because I have not had a chance to fire it yet. I looked inside the neck of the converted pieces and do not see a doughnut. I am though using a K&M neck expander. Maybe this is pushing the internal doughnut out?? Am I on the same page as what you're asking me?
 Overall, the turned case fits in my chamber like a fired Hornady piece. The other piece that I have NOT neck turned, also fits in my chamber like a glove.

Chazwood,
 The only reason I was concerned with trimming before running through the die was I thought that having a longer neck would make it easier to squeeze the neck down initially and reduce the chance of the "internal doughnut". I will try trimming first like you suggested.

[[email protected]]

Thanks for filling in the blanks. Do you not throw it back in the sizing die after you've done everything and put the bushing in to get correct neck tension?

Also out of ignorance/curiosity why use the expander? 

Sounds pretty simple overall.

[exsimguy1]

I am though using a K&M neck expander. Maybe this is pushing the internal doughnut out?? Am I on the same page as what you're asking me?

Yes, by using most any internal expander, the "internal" donut will be pushed to the outside, but at the mercy of the expanders "ride through the neck", as to concentricity. Then you have to turn it off the outside, taking the chance of cutting past the desired point, creating a thin spot.
I usually try to let the material go to the inside, as it naturally wants to with an outside forming die, then ream out the excess.

If you seat shallow enough, it CAN be left in place, some do.

Terry

[Rooks]

Shane, you're correct with needing to put the bushing back in and run it again. Overall it is pretty simple but takes time. When it's snowing and below 30 degrees I prefer to sit at the reloading bench anyway. Haha
Also, the expander die is "suppose" to be the correct way to neck turn so you create concentricity on the inside of the neck and then the neck turning creates concentricity on the outside.

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/expander-mandrels-and-neck-tension/

Terry, thanks for the additional info. I will see how far I need to seat as I'll be running JLK 140 pills with this brass. These will be hand fed only

[exsimguy1]

The other critical issue is to verify the correct neck thickness, to allow proper tension, and adequate clearance to chamber for proper bullet release.

When turning shoulder into neck, invariably, neck thickness will increase, and not usually in uniform dimension.
That leaves two options:

Expand after outside forming and turn outside of neck.
or
Form from outside, and ream inside to remove excess material.

A combination of the two will also work, my preferred method is to let the die form the outside dimension, and remove the excess from the inside, as long as one is capable of maintaining concentricity, this eliminates the possibility of the "thin spot" from the outside neck turning, being difficult to stop at proper place.

YMMV,
Terry