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Topics - Kansaswoodguy
Anyone have any input at where runout actually starts to effect your accuracy. I just did a abbreviated bit of testing and so far I can’t really see any discernible difference in ammo that has .001 and ammo that has .005 of runout as measured near where the bearing surface and ogive meet. Now I will freely admit the limited amount of shooting I did today is hardly of any statistical value but I usually can start to see where my testing is leading me and I didn’t really see enough of a difference to bother sorting rounds to that level of difference. Actual shooting experience please I can read what the Internet ninjas think elsewhere.
They are $80 now I have about 6 of them that’s a steal of a deal.
I have found that I can generally tune my FL sizing dies for low runout. I make a mark on the die body and one on the top of the decapping shaft. I then size four cases and measure the runout I then index the decapping shaft 1/4 turn deeper resize the cases and remeasure the runout generally I can find a spot that produces less than a thousandths runout. This is running a expander on the decapping shaft. I’ve played around with o rings under the locking ring to float the expander but tuning seems to work better for me. As a side note I do lube inside the case necks this also helps me control runout when using an expander. I’m a little surprised the die manufacturers don’t include this instruction with the dies as part of the setup.
Redding T7 press
Redding 3 powder throw
RCBS range master scale
Hornady case trimmer
Hornady Concentricity gauge
Hornady head space gauge set
Hornady OAL gauge
Hornady bullet comparator set
Berger #1 manual
Frankfort hand primer
Frankfort dry tumbler and 7lbs of media
1955 Federal primers
8lbs H4350 slightly less than 8lbs pretty sure 45 300 WSM loads worth missing.
55 Berger 185gr bullets he only ever loaded the other 45 on the equipment
RCBS 300 WSM die set
95 unfired new Norma 300 WSM brass
5 fired Norma 300 WSM brass
There where a few other odds and ends in the box also
I don't own a 300 WSM so I'll need to find a happy home that brass.
I didn't really need any of this stuff but at $550 I simply couldn't pass it up. Just the powder and primers are around $250-$300
I've got two gun safes full of Leupold scopes so I'm not a hater lets just get that out of the way. I picked up two more Leupold Mark AR 6-18x40 scopes the other day and there reticals or tubs or something don't appear to be centered I run out of elavation adjustment to make 100yds zero because the wind age is so far off running 20moa rails. I have two more of these scopes that are around 4 years old and have never had an issue with them. I did notice the silk screening is slightly different on the new scopes so they have changed something in the manufacturing in last few years. I moved one of the new models to a gun without the 20moa rail problem solved it does nock down some of my abilty to dial elevation for long range due to the windage not being centered but I can live with it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the other one yet.
I've got a Caldwell BR shooting table and borrowed a Caldwell stable table for my boy to use on an upcoming prairie dog hunt and they are both adequate but I'd like to build a smoother rotating table. I'm tossing around the idea of using a small 4 lug trailer hub and stub axle as the rotating base anybody built anything similar what sort or bearing system did you use?
$138 that's a great price for a Larue mount I picked one up the other day and like it the sideways clam shells is a little odd but it grows on you.
I just ordered one to replace a tired RCBS turret press I'm not getting any younger I'm looking forward to less exertion. Hopefully the machanical advantage is as advertised.
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