Just wondering if a 6mm Creedmoor "needs" a muzzle brake? I know this is subjective as rifles are different, heck there was a time when muzzle brakes had not yet been invented, everyone shot fine. My 65 CM rifles I believe benefit from a brake, helps to keep the sight picture intact as well as mitigating bench jump.
I've bought things from Bruno's before so I get the emails.
I'm starting to believe there's a parallel universe out there I know nothing about, which is fine I guess.
Here come's this trigger which I've never heard of, sounds great, cost a boatload of money, only available from Bruno's, and I have no idea from the description what the heck action it would fit in. I know it's not gonna fit my wife's Glock 21, lol.
I see this trimmer is offered as an LE Wilson product and a Sinclair-branded variant from Brownells, I can't readily tell what the Brownells one offers over the Wilson-branded one, anyone figured it out?
Reading reviews on Brownells.com it seems the product may not be trouble-free, most complaints I read center around poor quality control, not exactly a hallmark of LE Wilson.
Anyone know if this trimmer can chamfer and deburr in one operation, or at all?
I know, it's not a precision rifle, but I have an affection for my SCAR 17.
I've been looking into offerings from Dead Shot Barrels, while they do have .308 and 6mm CM choices I'm inclined to go 6.5 CM which I think is a good trade off between mild recoil and hard enough hitting. I'd describe the 7.62 NATO chambering of the rifle's recoil as "noteworthy"; not brutal but enough so I don't forget I'm shooting a real rifle. Cold accuracy is 1.5 MOA wondering into 1 MOA once she warms up, 15 rounds or so. Like all my other rifles, I use it to put holes in paper but I always consider this one my "Red Dawn", gun just in case.
Anyway, in 6.5 CM my choices are: 1:7 stainless 1:8 chromoly 1:8 stainless 1:8.5 5R 1:8 Shilen blank
A good buddy says he'd go with 5R; easier break in and cleaning.
I can pretty much get it cut to any length I want, I was thinking 20" to keep the maneuverability factor intact.
All thoughts on the choices welcomed, even if its "don't do it"
I'm slowly putting my new AR10 6.5 CM together and came across something today that puzzles me. I bought a JP Supermatch barrel which came with a properly headspaced bolt.
What I find odd is how much force I have to apply to depress the ejector, I really have to get on it. This is my first experience with AR10 bolts, with my AR15s I can use a fingernail to depress the ejector.
I decided to build an AR10 6.5 Creedmoor rifle before the new WA law kicks in, come July every semi-auto rifle will then be an "assault rifle", even a Ruger 10/22
I bought a stripped Aero Precision M5 matched lower and upper set, going to take my time building it.
Wondering what barrels you all would recommend? I don't hunt big game so this is for range use. Weight won't be a factor and for now, I have nowhere to shoot past 300 yards or so. I could look at 6mm Creedmoor too but that's another set of dies etc, not sure if that's a good idea.
I don't know why but those darn Proof barrels look cool as all get out.
I finally broke into the Alpha brass stash and decided to run a quick OCW ladder. I'd posted up before as to water capacity versus Starline, the consensus was start at 40.5 gr H4350 with 140 Hornady 140 gr BTHP and work up. I was accustomed to running 41.7 gr H4350 with the same bullet in Starline brass.
Browning X-bolt rifle, 28"pipe.
First, I was surprised at the level of effort needed to stroke the Alpha brass through a standard Lee collet die on a Forstner CoAx. True, I'm using a very shorty handle but still, compared to Starline the level of effort was remarkable. Measuring things, I was actually expanding the neck OD 0.001 by neck sizing.
OK, back on track. I ran the OCW today at 100 yards, it was about 35F ambient temperature with little to no wind. The first group ended up being 5 shots instead of 3 because I'd made an extra couple rounds and figured doing that at the starting charge made sense. The target was shot after a few warm up rounds.
I've pretty much figured this rifle likes to see 2800 fps or thereabouts as a node, and I still think that may be true with the Alpha brass.
But, what do I do about the first group? Best I ever shot. I know, OCW is not about groups but for me, that is sic. Should I play around a bit more in the 2730-2750 range? I'm never going to shoot past 300 anyway.
I neck sized 30 rounds of new Alpha brass yesterday, every piece had the same "feel" with the Lee collet die. I primed and charged them, then sat down to seat 140 gr Hornady HPBTs with a Forstner micrometer seating die. All rounds were to be seated at the same CBTO. I always return the micrometer to a point just outside the CBTO depth, seat, measure, adjust die, re-seat.
Everything was going textbook until the third to last round when I notice it seated unusually easier than the others. I measure it and it's a full 12/1000 seated deeper than my target CBTO right from the get-go.
Anyway, I set it aside and seated the next to last round without adjusting the die; it's textbook, needed 4/1000 more to hit target.
I'm thinking this is an imperfect bullet. I can't imagine the brass would be to blame even if the neck tension was off which allowed the bullet to "fall" in; the bullet cannot be pulled by hand. I've inspected the bullet and don't see anything which would be a clue as to why it felt, and measured so different.
One side of me says just shoot the darn thing and forget about it, the other side wonders if there's a potential safety issue and maybe I should pull the bullet and discard it. I know it's just one round, not a big deal, but in the 100s if not 1000s I've loaded, this is the first time I've seen one like this.
Wondering if anyone here has seen this? Shoot or pull?
A buddy of mine has a couple of these rifles, one in .308, one in 6.5 CM. Barrel changes are supposedly quite simple and barrel options have grown. I've shot his .308 rifle, heck, it made even me look good Wondering if anyone here has one, or knows about them?
I realize I'm on thin ice asking about a .223 rifle here on the 6.5 CM forum but, you all are the best
I pulled out another Savage from the safe today and cleaned her up so she won't divorce me. This one has seen maybe 300 rounds down the pipe, mostly factory ammo. She is the gun I would take to the range if I want to be sure I'll have a good day, very accurate, not fussy at all.
Anyway, I borescoped the barrel before and after I cleaned it using Wipe-Out. As I'm going down the barrel after cleaning, about half way in a 24" tube, I see this halo. I backed up on it over and over, it's there, I swear, and it was before beer-o-thirty.
It almost looks like a zone caused by the rifling machine stopping and starting again. I'm just guessing here as I've never seen a barrel being made. And yes, this is half way down the barrel, not where the rifling starts.
Thought I'd ask you all if you all have seen anything like this?