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Messages - bikemutt
If yes to either, would you consider adopting an older but lightly used couple? We'll bring the record player
Very nice man cave autoxforfun!
mine came today... 559 chris...lol.. I have 3 others just like it... the first one I got about a year ago.. it was a little over 900... one was around 8 and the other was 750... in my eyes I made money today...lol
Please send me a picture of your bandit mask, pretty sure my wife can duplicate it, lol.
If I could find one for 599, 1st or 2nd focal, I'd be on it.
Raw metal rubbing on raw metal will do this. Any minor angle
change during seating, can make it feel more grippy.....Best
groups I have laid down has always been with carbon in the
necks. I do not waste my time with tumbling.
Fair enough. I don't find wet tumbling to be a time consuming operation for me, the tumbler does all the work. Whatever part of the tumbling operation that does use my time is more than offset by not having to deal with primer pockets.
Finally got my 6.5 PRC Lee Collet Die. Can't wait to try it out. I find with the Lee collet, concentricity is within 0.0005". I size the neck, turn the case roughly 1/8 and lightly size again.
I ultrasonic clean, however wet cleaning causes the necks to be too clean, uneven bullet seating feel. To mitigate this, after ultrasonic, brass goes to de-humidifier @ 131F for 2-3hrs, then goes into a dry tumbler with buckwheat. This adds the polish/wax to inside the neck and helps a lot with smooth bullet seating.
I guess the $6M question is can brass necks every be as clean as what we have with virgin cases? Some of my best groups came from virgin brass despite the fact I never got a chance to put my own special touch on them. I've found wet SS tumbled cases to be the best I can do so far, the necks are clean. I cannot feel any variances in seating pressure using the same Lee die in a CoAx with a very short handle.
Maybe ultrasonic has different results than pin tumbling. But I'm very curious why very clean necks would result in felt, uneven seating effort.
I for one never worry about ES. or SD when I performing a ten shot ladder test as your looking for more of two rounds that are pretty close in velocity of one another..
This is where I have a hard time wrapping my head around the 10-shot ladder. There is no doubt that ES/SD play no direct role in the ladder because each round is different. When shooting groups, especially for loads which are ultimately shown to be out of node, it's not uncommon to see relatively large ES/SDs, if I imagine that each of my 1-shot loads is part of a 3-shot group, how confident am I that every one one of the 10 shots was the highest velocity, lowest velocity, or the average velocity for it's imaginary group? The answer for me is I'm not; maybe a better answer is who cares?
I once tried a 1-shot ladder test where I used 3-shots instead of 1 just to see if I could run down my self-dug rabbit hole. I played with the data for a while and more or less concluded I could pick random shots from each group which either resulted in a "perfect" 10-shot ladder, or a "what the heck is that?".
Overthinking simple things is a specialty of mine so I'm glad the 1-shot ladder works for others
Anyway, the bottom line is whatever you have to trade is undesirable, no one is buying those now, there maybe serious safety recalls, and on and on.
On the other hand, what you are considering buying is in very high demand, can't get enough of them on the lot, etc.
If I could trade all the BS I've heard from car dealers for ammo, I wouldn't need to reload
A lot of things have to go right for the 10-shot ladder to work for me; once my cousin Murphy quits following me to the range I'll revisit it
I can only say what I tried. I still have my Frankford Arsenal station which is what I started with, that is a 3 stage affair. After being seduced by Forstner, I went with their trimmer lathe and a 3-way trimmer head. That got me to a single stage trimmer and chamfer. But I was ruining brass by over trimming, I posted about that here and the consensus is I most likely have a bad collet.
So, I'm going to give the Wilson trimmer a shot, then use my Frankford for chamfer. Once I see how that goes I may try replacing the Forsner collet and comparing the results with the Wilson/Frankford.
After all that said I probably didn't help you much
chris are you going to do your load work up using the ocw method or 10 shot ladder method ?? the 140 bergers in my 6.5 creedmoor 26 inch pipe likes a .060 jump.. I know that probably means nothing for your stick..
Grant, I'm going OCW. I could rattle off reasons for my choice but they've all been stated here before, I just feel more comfortable at my reloading and marksmanship level to have more data points to base decisions on.
Once I see what CBTO looks like with these bullets, then overlaid with SAAMI specifications, and common sense, I should have a better idea of what I want to do for seating depth. It's good to know a big jump is not something for me to obsess about at this stage.
Hey Chris, the bearing surface will be different between those 2 bullets.
Those are the two node area's that everyone likes.
You don't want to start in the middle or end of it and miss it.
I would start at 40.2 or 40.0 and go to 42.0, loading 1 round every .2g of powder
and keep at your .03 off. Chrono your results. (Labradar or Magnetospeed) Look for pressure signs at the top.
Should see at least 2 different ones and then load for groups after that
to see which one shoots better.
That would be a 10-11 shot test. Since you have a 28 inch barrel, you might see
higher speeds than some and pick if you want to push or save your barrel.
Just my 2 cents
I had not even figured on the bearing surface, that's a great point. I may choose any seating depth and find out it's not practical, this is why I ask questions I'm going to get my CBTO nailed down tomorrow morning and go from there.
I like your idea to fully straddle the nodes and not try to hit one dead center from the start.