Is that with an Annealeez? I have been wanting to do that. Do you have a picture or two, by chance?
Nope made a dual torch setup from wood, use my iPhone and a deep socket and drill. Works excellent. Adjust the flame to get near that 5 seconds mark and tweak with the iPhone metronome app, the time in flame. ( before orange flame)
With my dual torch, use temp stick to make sure I don't overheat down the case, and heat one to orange flame, then speed up my timer to arrive at no orange flame. With Hornady brass my target time is 5 seconds just before getting an orange flame. Grant those look very nice indeed!!
I would start low, don't worry about the few extra rounds. I also would work around the ammo length you are currently using if you are getting 1/2 moa. 0.003" seating depth adjustments at a time. If you can get a fps of your match ammo, it will help find your node.
Probably depends on how heavy the rifle is. I love my brake on my 6.5, feels like a pea shooter. I think I would have it as an option on the 6. I also love shooting my .17 HMR. It does not really move at all. Can see exactly where you hit the gopher or grouse. My .22 moves lots in comparison.
My Savage factory barrel shows plenty of blue patches from Wipeout after 70 rounds. I could get a bit more copper out if I use the Barnes CL10, but I don't use it after Wipeout, unless I am not able to let the rifle sit overnight with Wipeout. After my barrel is free of WO, then I just use G96 to clean and lube the barrel, wet and dry patches. I would like to try the KG products.
Im not sure at all with quality barrels that you all are running, but my factory Savage, with my current cleaning method will run 60-70 rounds no problem. I only shoot around 3-4 fouler shots after I clean it.
I just finished shooting gophers. Went on two different days, a buddy and myself. The first day we shot 1000, the second day was 1500! I had brought out my shooting table, never used it though. I took my old video camera tripod, taped my rear bag to the top of it, and used it standing and seated in a chair. You could pivot all around, and was light to pick up and place down. It worked really well and will be my new go to. ( poor mans HOG saddle I guess ) I did use a loophole sling, worked great wrapped around my right arm, and even better connected to my belt, even when seated. A big pillow bag would have been nice to try under the arm. Anyway easier than a table and light to throw into the back of the truck when moving a few hundred yards to smack some more. Only problem is my nice wood stocked CZ452 Varmint in HMR has no QD attachment provisions. My 10/22 has a Magpul X22 and worked good.
Wow, that is interesting. So if I read it right, annealed brass, put once through a neck die with expander, will make it hard without even shooting. I wonder what the dies without expanders do for hardness, or a Lee collet die.
Using multiple seating strokes seems like it would potentially introduce more errors than it might fix, assuming a fix is even needed.
Each time a stroke starts there's the static friction component which must be overcome, that turns into a dynamic friction force which must be overcome, then do that 3 times. My thought is all that may result in a reduction of the most important hand loading factor; consistency.
Lee does suggest rotating the brass when neck sizing which I can see possibly having some benefit, I still don't bother with the extra step there.
Ya I would also think one motion from start to stop is best. I do the 1/2 turn extra step with my Lee collet.