I'm in the same boat as everyone with small rifle primers. That being said I do have CCI LRP and will probably need to switch from my Starline to Hornady brass in the near future. This relates of course to 6.5 CM.
Should be called Annealing Made Easy. The wife hates when I use the word, however intuitive is how I would describe the operation. Pricy, but an impressive machine that only takes up about a 12” by 12” slot on your bench. They gave me a hat which I could wear the range and let everyone know how I anneal. Trouble is they would expect me to be shooting better.
I had two different lots of W-W brass and analyzed each. The resulting code was slightly different. And it is fast!
If I anneal my 45-70 for my Pedersoli Sharps and my 303 for my antique Enfield I may never have to buy brass for them again.
Q. I’m looking at the Redding, RCBS, Hornady and Forster concentricity gauges. Any opinions?
It's apparent I need to anneal. My brass that is. That being so the AMP MK II appears to me the way to go. My original theory of twiddling cases through a propane torch flame was understandably not a good idea.
My local shady used car dealer has cheaper rides on it than this machine. So the question is, is it worth it and does anyone have experience using one?
If I go this route I may have to sell a couple of rifles from the back of the safe in order to finance it.
So. I had reason to pull some bullets and used a Lyman kinetic hammer puller. I appear to mechanically challenged with the press mounted jobs. That being said I realized I was deforming the tips on my ELD bullets. Figured out if you put a scrunched up paper product at the bottom of the puller tube it softens the blow, preserving the tip. Some of you are probably laughing thinking how did you not know this however I figure it may help someone.
I think, or probably know, that these compromised bullets are not good for Camp Perry however how much effect does a bent tip have on the accuracy? Should they be relegated to fireforming only?
Not that this is useful at this point however I received the "now available" email from Midway saying CCI Large Rifle #200 were available. I jumped on and snagged 5000. By the time I checked out they were unavailable again.
I typically clean my cases in a Frankford tumbler with stainless steel pins. No particular reason other than I perceive it to be easier on my dies and I like good looking brass. This is true of both my pistol and rifle cases.
Should I be doing this on “precision” loaded brass?
Annealing. I have never done this. Can it be consistently achieved simply by using a propane torch and spinning by hand or would this do more harm than good?
Looking for opinions. It's apparent I need to upgrade my Simmons which is OK for 200 yards or so however at full magnification (60x) the eye relief is awful. I wear spectacles which compounds this issue.
The choices and amount than can be spent are mind boggling. Somehow I can't bring myself to put more money into this than the rifle I have. Hence the question. Is there a budget friendly scope out there that can be used effectively at a 1000 yards?
And of course if anyone has one sitting around looking for a new home I would be interested.
I had the opportunity to attend a a long range clinic this weekend, and it was fun! First hats of to the folks who hosted this event. All volunteers at my local club, Oak Ridge Sportsman's Association.
After a couple of hours in the classroom where a lot of information and anecdotes were shared we headed out to the 600 yard line. As in F Class competition we rotated from the pits to the line. The purpose was to get us all sighted in. Each new shooter had a coach assigned at the line. I had mine already sighted in at around 100 yards and had done the math for clicks required from zero to get on target. It took about 4 rounds. I was happy.
We then moved to the 1000 yard line. It was daunting. A light wind did not seem to affect me though it has a reputation apparently of being wildly unpredictable at this range. Other than that, the weather was perfect.
Again I had done my math and my first shots were on target but in the 7's. It simply required an elevation adjustment 6 1/4 clicks up from my original calculation and a small tweak on windage to bring me on target. From that point on I shot 10's and X's
It may have been my lucky day however I give credit to my coach and the folks who facilitated the event.
Since I don't trust my precision reloading skills yet I was using Hornady 140 gr ELD Match which appears to be a great pairing for the 6.5 Creedmoor Ruger Precision Rifle. I am sure there is better glass however I can't complain about my Athlon Argos.
So I received my LabRadar which will replace my venerable Caldwell umbrellas on sticks set up and so far I am pretty impressed. The fact that you can record a string and dump it into Excel as a .csv file is really cool.
I do however have a question
My Ruger Precision (18029) has a muzzle brake. I think looking at it is a "hybrid" meaning it sends the blast out both at 90 and 45 degrees to the rear. I may have that term wrong. As you may imagine my concern is possible damage to the expensive orange tablet. The directions say put the muzzle just behind the unit which makes sense. How concerned should I be and would anyone recommend using a "shield" of some sort between the muzzle and the unit. Should I remove the brake?