This may be a dumb question, or I'm the only one who doesn't know the answer, here goes anyway.
I seat bullets using a micrometer seating die, Forstner in my case, where I back off the mic, seat, measure CBTO, adjust mic, re-seat, measure CBTO to double check, done.
Is there a system out there with a seating "stem" that's calibrated so it seats the bullet at the exact same point on the ogive as the CBTO gauge? My line of thinking is if the seater is referencing the exact same point on the ogive as the gauge, there's no need to measure over and over again.
A constant source of frustration for me shooting benchrest is the rear rest.
Rests that provide great vertical support, like my Atlas monopod, have little to no left-to-right and front-to-back stability.
Rests with excellent left-to-right stability have very little front-to-back stability.
Bags, with or without ears, make me feel like I'm in an isotoner commercial
Interestingly, no matter what rest, I'll move into shooting position and say "Yes!", it feels right, I know it's going to be a good shot. Then the next shot I'm like the 3rd cylinder in a V6 trying to find the spark plug
If I were in a session with my shooting therapist who asked "what's the problem?" I'd say heartbeat and muscle tension.
Yesterday I was seating Hornady 140 BTHP bullets in 4X-fired Alpha brass, the brass had been wet tumbled and neck sized with a Lee collet die, basically my standard operating procedure. The seating die is a Forstner Ultra micrometer unit I've used hundreds of times.
I always back off the mic 5-7 thou, seat, measure CBTO, turn down the mic by the difference between the measurement and the target CBTO, seat again, and measure again. Historically the bullets are seated dead-on 90-95% of the time, sometimes 100%.
This time around the bullets ended up seated 2 thou shorter than target CBTO. So I started subtracting 2 thou from the difference and sure as heck the bullets ended up being seated spot-on.
I checked the stem on the die since I've heard that dirt and grime can cause inconsistent seating; it's clean. The digital caliper has a fresh battery. The CBTO gauge is one I've use for months.
The only thing that's different is I broke into a new batch of bullets. These are from the 500 pack of Hornady Match bullets as sold by Midsouth Shooter's supply. I called them before I bought these to make sure they are not "B" stock or rejects, that they really are Match bullets. They said all they do is buy them in bulk and assemble them into 500 count packs. I'm not even sure the bullets could cause this but figured I'd mention it.
Anyone else ever had a micrometer seater behave like this and figured out why?
I'm a big fan so far of Sightron SIII scopes, I don't have the time or money to try them all. Generally I set a limit of $1000 for a quality target riflescope, but things do change. For a non-competitive, target situation, is $1k still enough?
Figured it was worth sharing a story and a few pictures of my new toy.
I've been looking for a Sig Sauer SSG 3000 sniper rifle for almost 3 years and finally found a very lightly used one (<40 rounds) across the river in OR, and for a darn good price. The SSG 3000 is essentially a police sniper rifle in .308, not unlike an FN SPR or various Remington and Savage offerings in that same genre. What's different about the SSG 3000 is how easy it is to swap barrels; now that I've done it, takes a couple minutes. It also features a fully adjustable trigger and a picatinny rail that's integral to the action. Finally, there's that German level of fit and finish which, if nothing else, inspires pride of ownership.
Since I have no aspirations to be a police sniper, I ordered up a Sport-Tact chassis from Accurate-Mag. Really there aren't any other choices for a cult-following, somewhat obscure rifle. It wasn't cheap but the action dropped right in and fit like a glove.
I need another .308 rifle like I need a hole in my head so the only logical thing to do was to replace the barrel with one in 6.5 Creedmoor. Turns out that Benchmark Barrels north of me in Arlington, WA offers drop-in SSG 3000 barrels in a bunch of calibers, including 6.6 Creedmoor. This one is finished 24", 1:8 twist threaded 5/8x24, bull-ish profile 0.9" at the muzzle.
Just need a riflescope before I take this one to the range for break in. I sure hope it shoots good for me, needless to say I'm excited to see what she can do She's a heavy one at 13.5 lbs before scope; recoil?, what recoil?, lol.
How diligent are you guys about clearing out your powder charge equipment and returning the powder to it's original storage container? This question is especially directed to guys who, for the most part, are using the same gunpowder for a goodly period of time, say a month or two.
I ordered up a 6.5 CM barrel from Benchmark and still have time to decide if I want them to straight-flute the barrel. This will be a 24", as bull as it can get considering the action, about 0.9" at the muzzle. I don't need weight reduction. If fluting will help with cooling that would be a plus. Thoughts team?
Just wondering if a 6mm Creedmoor "needs" a muzzle brake? I know this is subjective as rifles are different, heck there was a time when muzzle brakes had not yet been invented, everyone shot fine. My 65 CM rifles I believe benefit from a brake, helps to keep the sight picture intact as well as mitigating bench jump.
I've bought things from Bruno's before so I get the emails.
I'm starting to believe there's a parallel universe out there I know nothing about, which is fine I guess.
Here come's this trigger which I've never heard of, sounds great, cost a boatload of money, only available from Bruno's, and I have no idea from the description what the heck action it would fit in. I know it's not gonna fit my wife's Glock 21, lol.