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Converting .243 brass to 6.5 Creedmoor

Started by Trent, January 16, 2012, 09:17:46 PM

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How long depends upon how far from the flame (or where in it) the cases are, how thick the brass is, how much annealing needs to take place...  See how it's not _quite_ so simple as that?  Use the tempilaq, is my suggestion.  Some will tell you to look for a dull red glow.  More often than not, by the time you can see the dull red glow, you've destroyed the case.

There's a good sticky here:
Read Bramwell's post(s), but also read the attachment 'unclenick' posted.  It has a nice chart of temp vs. grain size, to give a better understanding of how this is a process, not a digital-esque 'not-done, done' type of thing.


 ive been competitvley shooting for along time in 100-200yd br. for yrs it was the 308 then we went to the ppc's and there was neck sizing then tightneck trimming and everything inbetween, ive been the guinea pig thats tried it all to gain the upper hand,but the best i can gather from annealing is extended case life ,am i right? the key to winning is good componets good guns,optics and techniques and alot of trigger time.(and money) i have quit the close range and found a new love in the longrange game and i have found that a 1 hole group at 100 aint worth a dime at 1000 or 1200 so i may pass on the annealing until i see more benefits ,so feel free to correct me if im wrong and thanks for the advice.
"kill em all"


Quote from: swampthang on September 05, 2012, 10:57:52 AMthe best i can gather from annealing is extended case life ,am i right?

Basically, yes.  It can improve neck tension consistency as the brass 'ages' (is loaded/fired more and more), but ultimately it's just about case life (# of loads/firings).


swampthang.......Years ago I annealed deprimed cases by using a battery powered drill with a primer pocket uniformer in its chuck.  I used a secured propane torch and would slip a case over the  uniformer and would spin the case holding the neck/shoulder area in the flame for around six seconds; and then would tip the case so it would fall off the primer pocket uniformer into a pail of water.  After some practice using junk cases, a person can get satisfactoruy results, but it isnt as fast as a "Bench Source" machine for volume annealing. YMMV
The latest caliber or gear is no substitute for experience and skill.  Rifles and cartridges don't make hits-----shooters do.


Layne Simpson had an excellent article years ago in Shooting Times about annealing cases. His method was placing the cases in a pan of water, heating (with a propane torch as mentioned earlier) and then tipping them over to cool. I followed the article's directions with some .257 Roberts cases and had excellent results. Maybe a reprint could be found.


if you find it i'd like to read more about it. as of now ive got plenty of new brass and im hearing and seeing 1/2 moa targets with 8-9 reloads onthem. so unless an accuracy node is proven i dont think i'll be annealing. brass life seems great along with barrell life on the 6.5 so a box of brass here and there is ok. but i would like to learn more about it.
"kill em all"


For my part, I've found the brass very soft thus far.  Much of it (almost all, actually) has needed to be trimmed after each firing, and I've only fired any of it twice.  I don't hot-rod it, and I'm just barely touching the shoulder.  Should have a neck sizer here in a couple to few weeks, but I don't see this stuff needing to be annealed any time soon.


Interesting. I've yet to need to trim mine except for after the first firing, and I always do that just so that everything is the same. I have one batch with 6 loadings on it and doesn't need trimmed yet.

When you say "needs trimmed", exactly how much is yours growing?


Enough to make the bolt difficult to close on a fair proportion of the loaded cartridges (didn't bother to check the first batch of 2nd-time reloads, having trimmed after the first firing/sizing), and to make it super-noticeable in the shavings and amount of brass the trimmer is taking off.  Sorry, I didn't measure.  Once I realized what was up, I simply chucked them all up in the trimmer.  I'm certain that one particular lot of brass is 'too' soft.  I'm hoping that the other stuff I have isn't a problem, and I'm just heavily into that one batch (I don't segregate brass lots).


Right on. Thanks for the info.

I tend to segregate so that I know how many reloads I have on each lot of brass. I also have different brass for each of my Creedmoors and I keep those segregated even further for the bullet types. That way I know how many loads I have on my 140gr loads and on my 120gr loads. No purpose to that except for my own curiosity.

Cheers brutha!



Do you keep your brass physically separated for your various guns at all times, or do you mark it somehow for various guns?


I keep all my ammo boxes labeled which gun they are for, the brass lot # and the bullet weight. In my F-class rifle I only run the 139gr Lapua so that one is easy to track. My metallic silhouette rifle I have to run two different bullets (120gr for 3 closest animals and 140gr for the heavy Ram at 500mtr). I just clean separately and load separately.

So far I have only lost one piece of Hornady brass and that was during load testing when I had a hot load and it toasted the primer pocket (hot lot of H4350 is the only thing I can attribute that to as I was way under what other guys are running).


thanks for the good info

I have a ton of varied .243 brass, and now may just decide to hang on to it after all...


Thought I'd follow up a little on an earlier comment about 'soft' brass.
My issue is (was) just that one small lot of brass.  Everything else is behaving about like I'd expect.


maybe I'm not doing something right but i have hornady custom dies for my cm i re-size 243 brass all the time never had an issue i just use a single pass no neck turning necessary i can get 243 brass all day long as i am on Oklahoma city and everybody hunts deer with 243 i mostly use hornady brass don't know why that's relevent but now you know