TL3 / Foundation build

[DHuffman]

Can you make your own separate/specific go gauge's after each barrel is mounted where you want it? Just grab each custom gauge for each barrel when swapping.

Not sure I follow what you're saying, I have 3 seperate gages already because they're 3 different cartridges. Headspace is easy to repeat to the go gage if you hold both the barrel and the action then torque the nut while holding them.

When I used to just hold the action with an action wrench the barrels would always turn with the nut just as it faced up to the lug. It was frustrating.

[LeadHammer]

Not sure I follow what you're saying, I have 3 seperate gages already because they're 3 different cartridges. Headspace is easy to repeat to the go gage if you hold both the barrel and the action then torque the nut while holding them.

When I used to just hold the action with an action wrench the barrels would always turn with the nut just as it faced up to the lug. It was frustrating.

What is the difference between the go no go in length? ( just one caliber ) I was thinking when you set it the first time, if you had a new gauge made that you would use to repeat the headspace without measuring by just using the new one. I have never used those gauges, as you can tell.

[DHuffman]

What is the difference between the go no go in length? ( just one caliber ) I was thinking when you set it the first time, if you had a new gauge made that you would use to repeat the headspace without measuring by just using the new one. I have never used those gauges, as you can tell.

The difference is the length not caliber. So you set the headspace on the go then you remoce it and attempt to chamber the no go. The bolt should go all the way forward and start to close but should only close about 1/4 to 1/3  if you can fully close the bolt on a no go the chamber headspace is too loose.

The gages are cartridge specific but many work for multiple cartridges as in the Creedmoor works fo the 6.5, 6 and I would assume the .25 & .22 as well.

Same for the .308, 7-08 and the .308 family.

On an AI cartridge like the 6 BRA, 7-08 improved, .280 AI etc where you want a .003 or .004" crush on the parent case to FF the go gage becomes the no go.

When I used the word "measure" in the post above i should have said "set against the go gage then check against the no go" instead.
When I set a barrel up on a nut I put 1 layer of scotch tape on the head of the go gage, turn the action onto the barrel to touch the gage in the chamber then holding the barrel and action like mentioned above turn the nut into touch and torque it. If i do it this way it usually comes out perfect for me.

Occasionally I'll get one slightly tighter or looser than I want in terms of brass growth on firing whether it's new brass or previously fired brass. From there it's easy to witness mark the barrel, nut, lug and action then put it back in the barrel vice and action wrench and loosen the nut and adjust the barrel one way or the other to get that perfect .001" - .002" shoulder growth and retorque the nut.

A shouldered barrel gets rid of all this and you screw it on, torque it and check against the gages. The only disadvantage it has to the nut set up in my opinion is if it's not shouldered right for the headspace in your action or its within the spec of the gages but is all the way to the end of the loose spec there's no adjusting it to right by the end user it going back to the Smith. The exception here would be if the end user has a lathe and is doing his own work.

[DHuffman]

.006" difference in shoulder datum length using a .375" datum on my Creedmoor go / no go set.
The go is a PTG and the no go is a Forster.

[LeadHammer]

Thanks Dave. You explained it perfectly.
An adjustable go gauge would mimic the the added tape.
I remember watching the video of Cortina doing the tape thing for setting bump, and I used it last time I checked my bump. Similar concept for sure.
A shouldered barrel usually requires high torque values? Barrel nut does not?

[DHuffman]

Thanks Dave. You explained it perfectly.
An adjustable go gauge would mimic the the added tape.
I remember watching the video of Cortina doing the tape thing for setting bump, and I used it last time I checked my bump. Similar concept for sure.
A shouldered barrel usually requires high torque values? Barrel nut does not?

You'll get a lot of different opinions on torque value. I run 60-70 lb ft on a shouldered, 35 - 40 on a nut.

[gman47564]

.006" difference in shoulder datum length using a .375" datum on my Creedmoor go / no go set.
The go is a PTG and the no go is a Forster.

My forster go and no go has a .006 difference as well

[gman47564]

The difference is the length not caliber. So you set the headspace on the go then you remoce it and attempt to chamber the no go. The bolt should go all the way forward and start to close but should only close about 1/4 to 1/3  if you can fully close the bolt on a no go the chamber headspace is too loose.

The gages are cartridge specific but many work for multiple cartridges as in the Creedmoor works fo the 6.5, 6 and I would assume the .25 & .22 as well.

Same for the .308, 7-08 and the .308 family.

On an AI cartridge like the 6 BRA, 7-08 improved, .280 AI etc where you want a .003 or .004" crush on the parent case to FF the go gage becomes the no go.

When I used the word "measure" in the post above i should have said "set against the go gage then check against the no go" instead.
When I set a barrel up on a nut I put 1 layer of scotch tape on the head of the go gage, turn the action onto the barrel to touch the gage in the chamber then holding the barrel and action like mentioned above turn the nut into touch and torque it. If i do it this way it usually comes out perfect for me.

Occasionally I'll get one slightly tighter or looser than I want in terms of brass growth on firing whether it's new brass or previously fired brass. From there it's easy to witness mark the barrel, nut, lug and action then put it back in the barrel vice and action wrench and loosen the nut and adjust the barrel one way or the other to get that perfect .001" - .002" shoulder growth and retorque the nut.

A shouldered barrel gets rid of all this and you screw it on, torque it and check against the gages. The only disadvantage it has to the nut set up in my opinion is if it's not shouldered right for the headspace in your action or its within the spec of the gages but is all the way to the end of the loose spec there's no adjusting it to right by the end user it going back to the Smith. The exception here would be if the end user has a lathe and is doing his own work.

I set mine up a little different.. but end up about the same place.. I hand snug my barrel against the go gage then back it off just a smidge. Then tighten the nut.. the barrel will turn with the nut just a smidge on final torque.. which in my case is just done by feel of how tight it is.. anyway the bolt will close on the go gage but you can feel it.. new brass is normal .003 or so short of the go gage.. when it's all said and done new brass is growing .001 to .002..

[autoxforfun]

I just chambered my Savage in 25CM.  Finally received a 25Cal 1.25" blank.  I decided to do a shouldered barrel versus the barrel nut.  The shouldered route is definitely more work for the gunsmith.  Most pre-fits leave a lot of clearance between the bolt and the barrel face and so the chambering process is pretty easy and not all that precise.  With a shouldered barrel, you can control the clearance between the bolt and barrel face and you can time the barrel correctly.....all of which I believe are a benefit.  And so setting the headspace is a more precise operation once you get all the other things set where you want them.

After I thought I was done, I torqued the barrel onto the action and the bolt would not close with the go-gauge.  I didn't torque the barrel while on the lathe when I set the chamber depth....so I needed to go back and set the barrel back up in the lathe and go another 0.002 deeper with the reamer.  Learned something new.  Definitely pleased with the result.

[autoxforfun]

My forster go and no go has a .006 difference as well

Same here.....mine are PT&G for the CM

[gman47564]

I just chambered my Savage in 25CM.  Finally received a 25Cal 1.25" blank.  I decided to do a shouldered barrel versus the barrel nut.  The shouldered route is definitely more work for the gunsmith.  Most pre-fits leave a lot of clearance between the bolt and the barrel face and so the chambering process is pretty easy and not all that precise.  With a shouldered barrel, you can control the clearance between the bolt and barrel face and you can time the barrel correctly.....all of which I believe are a benefit.  And so setting the headspace is a more precise operation once you get all the other things set where you want them.

After I thought I was done, I torqued the barrel onto the action and the bolt would not close with the go-gauge.  I didn't torque the barrel while on the lathe when I set the chamber depth....so I needed to go back and set the barrel back up in the lathe and go another 0.002 deeper with the reamer.  Learned something new.  Definitely pleased with the result.

I hope you enjoy your 25 as much as I have mine..

[autoxforfun]

I hope you enjoy your 25 as much as I have mine..

I'm looking forward to getting it done....it has been a long journey.  I have a nice Walnut stock I want to finish for it but will need to let that effort sit for a bit while I get the car done.  But if I can make good progress on the car, then I may be able to get the stock done over the next couple months.

[jvw2008]

I'm looking forward to getting it done....it has been a long journey.  I have a nice Walnut stock I want to finish for it but will need to let that effort sit for a bit while I get the car done.  But if I can make good progress on the car, then I may be able to get the stock done over the next couple months.

You do stay busy. 👍

[autoxforfun]

You do stay busy. 👍

Just enjoying retirement...lol

[DHuffman]

Loaded 40 rounds of 6.5 Creedmoor this evening, probably been 3 years since I've loaded for one.
New Alpa LRP brass
H4350 some at 40.5 some at 40.7 then 5 cases loaded 40.1 40.3 40.5 40.7 40.9 to get an idea on velocity 
Fed Match primers (there was a box handy on the bench)
142 SMKs seated to 2.810" as per the manual because I don't know the distance to the lands. Will probably be .100" - .200" off I bet LOL

Wyatts bringing up the barreled action and I'm bringing the stock scope and ammo.  Have 3 bench gun ladders loaded and a seating ladder for the GT