I'm slowly putting my new AR10 6.5 CM together and came across something today that puzzles me. I bought a JP Supermatch barrel which came with a properly headspaced bolt.
What I find odd is how much force I have to apply to depress the ejector, I really have to get on it. This is my first experience with AR10 bolts, with my AR15s I can use a fingernail to depress the ejector.
I decided to build an AR10 6.5 Creedmoor rifle before the new WA law kicks in, come July every semi-auto rifle will then be an "assault rifle", even a Ruger 10/22
I bought a stripped Aero Precision M5 matched lower and upper set, going to take my time building it.
Wondering what barrels you all would recommend? I don't hunt big game so this is for range use. Weight won't be a factor and for now, I have nowhere to shoot past 300 yards or so. I could look at 6mm Creedmoor too but that's another set of dies etc, not sure if that's a good idea.
I don't know why but those darn Proof barrels look cool as all get out.
I finally broke into the Alpha brass stash and decided to run a quick OCW ladder. I'd posted up before as to water capacity versus Starline, the consensus was start at 40.5 gr H4350 with 140 Hornady 140 gr BTHP and work up. I was accustomed to running 41.7 gr H4350 with the same bullet in Starline brass.
Browning X-bolt rifle, 28"pipe.
First, I was surprised at the level of effort needed to stroke the Alpha brass through a standard Lee collet die on a Forstner CoAx. True, I'm using a very shorty handle but still, compared to Starline the level of effort was remarkable. Measuring things, I was actually expanding the neck OD 0.001 by neck sizing.
OK, back on track. I ran the OCW today at 100 yards, it was about 35F ambient temperature with little to no wind. The first group ended up being 5 shots instead of 3 because I'd made an extra couple rounds and figured doing that at the starting charge made sense. The target was shot after a few warm up rounds.
I've pretty much figured this rifle likes to see 2800 fps or thereabouts as a node, and I still think that may be true with the Alpha brass.
But, what do I do about the first group? Best I ever shot. I know, OCW is not about groups but for me, that is sic. Should I play around a bit more in the 2730-2750 range? I'm never going to shoot past 300 anyway.
I neck sized 30 rounds of new Alpha brass yesterday, every piece had the same "feel" with the Lee collet die. I primed and charged them, then sat down to seat 140 gr Hornady HPBTs with a Forstner micrometer seating die. All rounds were to be seated at the same CBTO. I always return the micrometer to a point just outside the CBTO depth, seat, measure, adjust die, re-seat.
Everything was going textbook until the third to last round when I notice it seated unusually easier than the others. I measure it and it's a full 12/1000 seated deeper than my target CBTO right from the get-go.
Anyway, I set it aside and seated the next to last round without adjusting the die; it's textbook, needed 4/1000 more to hit target.
I'm thinking this is an imperfect bullet. I can't imagine the brass would be to blame even if the neck tension was off which allowed the bullet to "fall" in; the bullet cannot be pulled by hand. I've inspected the bullet and don't see anything which would be a clue as to why it felt, and measured so different.
One side of me says just shoot the darn thing and forget about it, the other side wonders if there's a potential safety issue and maybe I should pull the bullet and discard it. I know it's just one round, not a big deal, but in the 100s if not 1000s I've loaded, this is the first time I've seen one like this.
Wondering if anyone here has seen this? Shoot or pull?
A buddy of mine has a couple of these rifles, one in .308, one in 6.5 CM. Barrel changes are supposedly quite simple and barrel options have grown. I've shot his .308 rifle, heck, it made even me look good Wondering if anyone here has one, or knows about them?
I realize I'm on thin ice asking about a .223 rifle here on the 6.5 CM forum but, you all are the best
I pulled out another Savage from the safe today and cleaned her up so she won't divorce me. This one has seen maybe 300 rounds down the pipe, mostly factory ammo. She is the gun I would take to the range if I want to be sure I'll have a good day, very accurate, not fussy at all.
Anyway, I borescoped the barrel before and after I cleaned it using Wipe-Out. As I'm going down the barrel after cleaning, about half way in a 24" tube, I see this halo. I backed up on it over and over, it's there, I swear, and it was before beer-o-thirty.
It almost looks like a zone caused by the rifling machine stopping and starting again. I'm just guessing here as I've never seen a barrel being made. And yes, this is half way down the barrel, not where the rifling starts.
Thought I'd ask you all if you all have seen anything like this?
I haven't shot my Savage rifles for almost a year now, been busy working with an X-bolt and Cooper. So, I decided today was the today to pull out the Savage 10 .308 and get it ready to shoot tomorrow. I'm checking all the usual stuff; made sure scope screws are still tight, brake on tight etc. Then I get to the bolt; press the release, nothing, it won't come out of the action. Fiddle with the safety, nothing. I mess with this darned bolt for 20 minutes to where my better half has now heard a flotilla of bad language that's made it's way to the kitchen and comes in to check up on me.
That's when a sheepish look comes over my face; squeeze the trigger IDIOT!
I'm about to start working with Alpha LRP brass, I've been using Starline LRP brass.
My Starline load has been 41.7 gr H4350 under a Hornady 140 gr BTHP bullet. This load runs right around 2810 fps out of a 28" X-bolt rifle.
The measured H2O capacity of a fireformed Starline case is 51.82 gr, the unfired Alpha measures 49.88 gr H2O.
Using Qickload and holding everything constant except for the case capacity, I need to back off the H4350 to 41.0 gr in order to achieve the same muzzle velocity and approximate Pmax. I realize the capacity of fireformed Alpha may be different than virgin, I just want to be confident I've backed of enough on this new brass to stay safe and not beat it up.
So, does backing of 0.7 gr H4350 sound out of line for a starting point?
I realize neck tension plays a role here, I will keep an eye on that.
Now that I have my cool-man primer pocket plugs I'm ready to measure some case capacities.
I'm shooting twice-fired Starline LRP brass right now and will be transitioning to Alpha LRP brass as the Starline's wear out.
My question is, when it comes time to work up loads for the Alpha brass, can I make any useful case capacity comparisons between fire-formed Starline and virgin Alpha brass? Since what I'm mostly looking for to start with is making safe loads for the Alpha, I think if the Alpha brass has the same or greater capacity than the Starline, I'd be OK staying close to my current charge weight of 41.7 gr H4350. On the other hand, if the capacity of the Alpha brass is less, I'd probably want to back down a fair amount on the charge.
Of course, I'll use QuickLoad to examine my loads but, there's no substitute for sage advice
I finally got out today for a seating depth ladder, perfect day for it, sunny, cool very little wind.
Quick facts: Browning X-Bolt Target, 28" barrel, 6.5 Creedmoor. Starline LRP brass, once fired. Hornady 140 gr BTHP bullet. H4350 41.7 gr load. CCI BR-2 primers.
Brass prep: Decap, wet pin tumble, dry. Anneal. One Shot lube, body size, bump shoulders a hair over 0.001. Neck size, Lee collet. Trim, chamfer.
I've been loading for this rifle with a seating depth of 0.030 as it seems to work pretty good. For this test I started at 0.040 and worked towards jam. I used 6 rounds of some factory Hornady 140 gr ELD-M to warm up the barrel. Labradar was employed to track velocity, ES and SD. With my loads the rifle's POI was about 7 o'clock, I left it there.
Below is the target and the chart I used to record velocity data, all 3-shot groups.
A few comments:
Pretty sure I pulled the low ones @ .028 and .016. The masterpiece @ .007 can be blamed on the red hot piece of .556 brass from my lane buddy next door going down my collar, lol.
I really want to love .019 since it's one hole but the ES and SD was the worst of the day. If .004 is really that good it makes me wonder if this gun might like jam?
I painstakingly measured everyone of these very carefully; no setting the micrometer seating die and hoping for the best.
I fat-fingered the Ladradar on the last group, accidentally disarmed the unit after the first shot
In my quest to improve my end of the bargain when it comes to target shooting, I'm interested in presenting a more consistent force which opposes the rifle's recoil, in other words, shouldering the rifle better. At this time I'm strictly a casual benchrest target shooter.
It seems to me this opposing force runs the gamut from allowing free-recoil or zero opposing force, to a rifle rest with infinite opposing force. I do have some rifles that actually shoot pretty darn good in free-recoil but setting up for the next shot can be a bit messy. I'm not really interested in putting my rifle in a vise as that won't teach me anything about marksmanship (I don't think).
I've experimented with pre-loading the bi-pod which feels like it works pretty good but it's highly dependent on the bench surface; with spikes and a rubber mat it's easy, with concrete or wood and rubber feet, not so much. I've also played with pulling the rifle into my shoulder with my trigger hand which appears to yield pretty good results but at the expense sometimes of trigger control, perhaps owing to the muscle tension involved in holding the rifle in.
So, I figured I'd ask the experts here for their thoughts on the matter