I did a bit or reading online about case lubes. The lanolin/IPA home brew seems to be a standout favorite (including here). Ordered some supplies to try, seems like a good opportunity for a head to head comparison. I have noticed that with the 1 shot, the cases feel like they drag a bit in the FL die. I may also modify (or not even use) my case block. The block is 3/4" so when I spray, the base of the head doesn't really see alot of lube. Might be below where the die contacts the shell aggressively, though...
Amazon had 12 packs of the 99% IPA for $19. No shipping. Was surprised that they'd ship highly flammable items free.
Here is my normal routine. I deprime and then anneal. Then I use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the brass. Then dry in dehydrator for 1 hour and then shake in bag with 2 squirts of 99% alcohol / Lanolin (2 oz lanolin per 16 oz bottle). FL size, then trim, chamfer, then into the old dry vibratory tumbler to remove brass shavings and residues. This also makes them really shinny for extra velocity. Then mandrel the neck with Lee mandrel and load.
I have also used sizing wax and one shot. The one shot is handy but makes a huge mess of your tray. There is a distinct difference in how much drag you feel on the die between the lanolin and one shot.
I use 1 part pure lanolin to 10 parts 99% isopropyl alcohol. I place a 100-200 cases in a coffee can shake the can until the cases orientate themselves mouth up. I give a couple sprays then shake the can a bit more maybe a another spray then give it a while to dry I often will start sizing before they are dry.
I use 1 to 8 alcohol and lanolin. Then put 25 at a time in a Ziploc bag with 2 squirts and shake around until coated. They never really are very wet, but boy can they be slick trying to hang on to them. This also gives far less resistance in the die than anything else I've tried.
Windsage, I just finished a Savage Target Action 6mm Grendel. I had built an AR-15 upper first and was really impressed with the performance in an AR platform, so I thought I would build a bolt version. I ordered a 28" X-Caliber barrel. I am just now loading for it and haven't shot it yet....hopefully soon. Plan to use some variant of a 105-107g bullet.
I'd be interested in how that comes out. I was thinking of doing it in an AR upper using a 20" Criterion barrel. I was specifically looking at the 105 Hybrid to see if a 6mm Grendel based unit might be as good as a 6mm Dasher, and easier on brass.
Many years ago I can remember looking at the ballistics charts in the Remington book and seeing how flat the 6.5x55 was and thinking to myself, "I need to get me a Swedish Mauser." They were $125 at the time. I never did get one. I have the 6.5 CM and 6.5 Grendel now, but I have lately been considering building a 6mm Grendel.
Many people have mentioned starting .020" off the lands, but I generally start .020" off the mag length if that's shorter. Then find a charge and then adjust .003" up and down a bit to see if there is a difference. My current load uses 147's .050" off the lands, but it's about .015" inside the mag.
I had a pet load using RL16 and 120 eld-m at about 3040 fps with a previous barrel. It was really flat as long as there was not too much wind. The heavier bullets really pull ahead when the wind picks up.
I have a Midas TAC 6-24x50 and love it. I held it side by side with the viper gen 2 when I bought it. The glass on it is clearer than the viper glass, and I like the thinner reticle. I have had good luck with it and it stays zeroed. My rifle got knocked over up on a platform one day and the scope hit pretty hard, but was still dead on. It's a 30mm tube, so it doesn't have the huge range that the 34 mm ones have, and the turrets are good, but not as big as the ones on the higher end stuff. The windage is caped, but I like that as it doesn't get moved by rubbing on stuff. Any more I would be fine with both turrets capped really as I tend to hold up for everything anyway.
If you're in the Pensacola area, you can save the wear on the plane, and just drive up to Core in Baker, FL. It's about 1 hour northeast of Pensacola, and there is a one day PRS match tomorrow (9feb2019).
That target looks fine to me. The notation on MOA scopes that says 1 click = 1/4" at 100 yds, is normally a simplification. 1 MOA is actually slightly more than 1" and 100 yds, and so 1 click is a bit more than you think. 30 MOA at 25 yds should be 7.85", and that's just about what you have there.
They were on sale and I got them for my Grendel. I also got the micrometer head for the seating die. They seem to work fine, but I have to put my glasses on to see the hash marks on the micrometer. It made me appreciate the big knob on the Forster dies even more.
I don't do any serious benchrest, so even the Lee dies I have for my 35 rem deer rifle work fine for me.
I tried the 130 RDF in my 6.5 CM and they just wouldn't group for me. They were also very long to get to the lands, so mag length was an issue. I use the 123 CC all the time in my 6.5 Grendel and it loves them. The dimensions of the 123 CC are almost perfect for the Grendel. I would not put them up against the Bergers for benchrest work though.
I used to use One Shot. I changed to making my own. 2oz liquid lanolin in 16 oz spray bottle and fill with 99% alcohol. Put about 25 cases in a baggie, pump 2 sprays and shake it up. You can actually feel the difference. Its much smoother than the One Shot was.
So the liquid method of cleaning does such a good job, it removes most or all of the carbon on the inside of the necks. This carbon acts as a lubricant, allowing the bullet to release more consistently. I typically use a very stiff (Montana-X) nylon bore brush of the correct caliber. Being somewhat OCD, I typically screw my brush into my prep center and run the case up and down about 10 times. To see what affect this has, try seating a bullet into a case that has been brushed and one that has not and you will feel the difference. The goal is to try to get the same seating resistance for each round. Benchrest shooters say that this is one of the most importance factors for consistency.
Now you have me adding another step to my process.
I presently use a RCBS Ultrasonic for cleaning. I de-prime first and heat it up to 140F, and run 30 minutes. It took the RCBS unit forever to heat up, so I just heat up the water in an old teapot and pour it in. Using the hot water, it cleans everything nicely, but still does not polish. I then size and trim. Then, my last step before loading is to vibratory tumble for 3 hours just for the shine, and shaving removal. Now I will brush the necks after this and see what it does for my loads.
I did some load work ups with it using Sierra 142's and Hornady 147 ELD. I liked the results and the velocities, but did not continue with it. It's not known as a temperature stable powder and so I was not sure how the loads would vary over a season.