Form is always important. I would not load them .002” off the lands. Essentially you’re jamming the projectile. Pressure spikes typically occur when jamming and can cause flyers (see group C) Keep at, looking good 👍🏻
Now you could start working the jump of bullet to tighten up groups. Start by finding the true jam of the 143eldx. Then work jumps incrementally, start at .015, .020, .025, .030, .035, etc.. One or possibly two groups will standout over the others. When you find it or them pick the one w least vertical spread, then work in .002” graduations on either side of where you started to optimize the MOA of that load. Good luck
Let's Debate !! From a mechanical standpoint, with a positive stop, and absolutely no flex in the loading apparatus, you should be good to go, But that only covers the outside primer dimension. It's the internal dimension, why anal bench rest shooters prefer to hand prime. If your using primers like BR2's the quality control should better be good enough for a mechanical stop. As for others, you may be crushing the anvil into the primer mix, on a few, and of course scratch our heads about that once in a while unexplained flier.....It just all boils done to what method your satisfied with, and with the components used.
Not sure I get what you’re saying about internal dimension but I can tell you that the Co-ax is absolutely fool proof and if the operator is consistent primers will be set to the exact same depth to the half thousandth in relation to the base of the cartridge. I also agree w Jerry in that seating by “feel” is a BR anal albatross. I use my K&M hand primer not because of feel, but because I can control the seating depth with the threads, like a bullet and a seater die.
I hear the really good hand loaders can control the bullet seating depth by feel tho lol
Im wondering any any of you guys use one of these... I've got the app on my phone and 3 rifles set up in the app and also sent to the kestrel from the app... everything seems to be working but I must not have something set right or imputed right... in the app I have my zero set at a 100 yards... and on the kestrel if I scroll back to a hundred yard range its giving me .26 moa up on one gun... another gun is giving me .30 moa up... why is this not reading zero since my zero is at a hundred...
He has had a couple of opinions that I agree with. Rather have him do informative gunsmithing actually showing how to do certain things. When I have trouble falling asleep I watch about 5 minutes of one of his videos....better than Sominex😥..!
So I received and set up the new co ax. I think I know the answer but I’ll ask anyway, do those that use the co ax really hand load primers one at a time into the top shell holder or do you use a hand priming tool and skip priming on the co ax ?
It depends. I’ve gotten pretty quick w/ it so doesn’t piss me off to utilize the priming feature. It offers excellent consistency because it uses a engineered mechanical hard stop so it will seat primers to the exact same depth every time. Idiot proof, prolly why I like it 😬 If I don’t use the co-ax I’ll use a K&M hand priming tool depending on the cartridge I’m loading. Honestly I think the co-ax is quicker for me, but w the K&M I can control the depth of seating rather than having it set for me. Word to the wise because of the leverage offered be careful not to apply too much force when the hard stop is reached because you can easily damage the rim of a cartridge which can effect extraction. I know Forster makes a bench top version w a feed tube, I’m not sure if they use the same engineered hard stop design as the press? Anyone know?? If they do I may just look into getting one to speed things up.
It’s not a myth guys. Been stating this for years. The design of press wants the die to move on the front to back axis. The press body is cast, so a steel lock ring is going to win over time whilst an aluminum will take the brunt of erosion. Same principle as an anode rod or bar, it’s intended to be sacrificial. I’d rather replace a $5 dollar part vs a $350 one. Also keep the 4 pins on linkage well lubricated. I’ve had no issues with my co-ax and I’ve loaded well over 8k rounds, while I’ve seen pictures of other co-ax presses where the pins are complete toast and need to be replaced. Good news is replacement parts are available for the Forster, except the body.. may be wrong on that but I haven’t seen them offered. Please correct me if I’m wrong on this.